Betancuria, Fuerteventura: A Guide to the Old Capital & Inland Mountains

The short version: If you want to escape the coastal tourist traps, Fuerteventura‘s mountainous interior is a must-see. Drive the winding roads to Betancuria, the island’s 15th-century capital built in a hidden valley to defend against pirates. Along the way, check out the giant bronze statues of pre-conquest kings at Mirador de Guise y Ayose, and stop in the quiet village of Antigua for incredible local goat cheese.

Most people head straight for the beaches when they arrive in Fuerteventura, and I can understand why. But if you want to experience a different side of the island – a side that’s steeped in history, with stunning mountain scenery and a real sense of peace and quiet – then you need to head inland. This blog post (and the accompanying video) is all about exploring Betancuria, the former capital of Fuerteventura, and the surrounding villages and viewpoints in the heart of the island.

First, check out the video:

Is the mountain drive to Betancuria dangerous?

The drive to Betancuria involves winding mountain roads, steep inclines, and tight hairpin bends, but it is generally well-maintained and safe if you take your time. The breathtaking views over the rugged, volcanic terrain make the journey a major highlight of any Fuerteventura trip.

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Getting to Betancuria is an experience in itself, and a highlight of any trip to central Fuerteventura. It’s not just about reaching the destination; the journey itself is a major part of the appeal. As you leave the coastal areas and head inland, the landscape transforms dramatically. You’ll find yourself winding along narrow, mountain roads, with hairpin bends and breathtaking views around almost every corner. This is a world away from the flat, arid plains you might associate with Fuerteventura.

The roads themselves are generally well-maintained, but be prepared for some steep inclines and tight curves. Take your time, drive carefully, and make sure to pull over at designated viewpoints (miradores) to fully appreciate the scenery. There are several along the way, each offering a slightly different perspective on the rugged, volcanic terrain.

As you drive, you’ll notice the changing vegetation. The coastal scrubland gives way to a more mountainous landscape, with hardy plants clinging to the rocky slopes. You might even spot some of the island’s famous goats roaming freely. The air feels fresher, the pace of life slows down, and you begin to understand why this region is considered the heart and soul of Fuerteventura.

One of the first villages you might encounter on your way to Betancuria is La Ampuyenta. It’s a small, unassuming place, but it holds a couple of interesting historical sites. The most prominent is the Ermita de San Pedro de Alcántara, a charming little church that dates back to the 17th century. It’s a beautiful example of traditional Canarian architecture, with its whitewashed walls and simple, elegant design.

But La Ampuyenta also has a more recent, and perhaps surprising, claim to fame. In the 19th century, a well-known doctor, Tomás Mena y Mesa, lived and worked here. It’s a reminder that even these seemingly remote villages have played an important role in Fuerteventura’s history. It’s worth a quick stop to see the Ermita and imagine what life must have been like in this isolated spot centuries ago.

Why is Antigua the best place for windmills and cheese?

Antigua is a sleepy, traditional village famous for its Museo del Queso Majorero (Majorero Cheese Museum) and classic Canarian windmill. It is an incredibly quiet town that offers a surprisingly green contrast to the island’s usual arid landscape.

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Continuing on your journey, you’ll likely pass through Antigua. While it might not be as historically significant as Betancuria, Antigua offers another glimpse into traditional Fuerteventura life, away from the hustle and bustle of the coast. It’s a pleasant place for a brief stop, or even just a scenic drive-through.

One of Antigua’s main landmarks, is the Museo del Queso Majorero, or the Majorero Cheese Museum. Fuerteventura is renowned for its goat cheese, and this museum is dedicated to the history and production of this local delicacy. If you’re a cheese lover (or even just cheese-curious!), it’s worth a visit. You can learn about the traditional cheese-making process, see the different types of Majorero cheese, and, of course, sample some of the finished product.

Beyond the museum, Antigua has a pleasant central square, dominated by the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Antigua, the town’s main church. It’s a simple but attractive building, typical of the island’s architecture. Take a few minutes to wander around the square, soak up the atmosphere, and perhaps grab a coffee at one of the local cafes. You might also spot the town’s windmill.

While Antigua might not be a “must-see” destination in its own right, it’s a pleasant and authentic example of a Fuerteventura village, and it adds to the overall experience of exploring the island’s interior. It’s a reminder that there’s more to Fuerteventura than just beaches and tourist resorts.

Who are the giant bronze statues at Mirador de Guise y Ayose?

The massive statues represent Guise and Ayose, the ancient kings who ruled Fuerteventura before the Norman conquest in the 15th century. These pre-Hispanic rulers divided the island into two kingdoms: Maxorata in the north and Jandía in the south.

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Before you even reach Betancuria, you absolutely must stop at the Mirador de Guise y Ayose. This viewpoint isn’t just about the stunning panoramic views (though those are certainly a major draw!). It’s also a place that connects you to the ancient history of Fuerteventura.

Dominating the Mirador are two imposing bronze statues. These represent Guise and Ayose, two kings who ruled over the island before the Spanish conquest in the 15th century. At that time, Fuerteventura was divided into two kingdoms: Maxorata in the north and Jandía in the south. These statues are a powerful reminder of the island’s pre-Hispanic past and the indigenous Guanche people who once called this land home. It is well worth the short detour, and offers a great spot for a photo opportunity.

But, let’s be honest, the views are the main reason to stop here. From the Mirador, you get a truly breathtaking panorama. You can see across a vast swathe of the island, taking in the rugged mountains, the deep valleys, and, on a clear day, even glimpses of the coastline. It’s a perfect spot to get your bearings and appreciate the scale and beauty of Fuerteventura’s interior. It also gives you a sense of the strategic importance of this location, high up in the mountains, overlooking the surrounding landscape.

Why was the old capital of Betancuria built in the mountains?

Founded in 1404 by Jean de Béthencourt, Betancuria was built deep in a mountain valley specifically to defend against marauding pirates. This inland location protected the island’s first capital from the constant coastal raids that plagued Fuerteventura for centuries.

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And finally, you arrive in Betancuria. This small, unassuming town was once the capital of Fuerteventura, and it holds a special place in the island’s history. Founded in 1404 by the Norman conqueror Jean de Béthencourt (hence the name), Betancuria remained the capital for centuries, until 1834. Its inland location, nestled in a valley and surrounded by mountains, was chosen for strategic reasons. It was much easier to defend against pirate attacks than coastal settlements, a constant threat in those days.

What are the best things to see in Betancuria?

Walking through the streets of Betancuria is like stepping back in time. The town is incredibly well-preserved, and it retains a peaceful, almost timeless atmosphere. Here are the key things to see:

• Iglesia de Santa María de Betancuria: This is the heart of the town, and its most iconic landmark. The original church on this site was actually destroyed by pirates in 1593, during a major raid led by the Berber pirate Xaban Arraez. The attack devastated Betancuria, and the church was left in ruins. It was eventually rebuilt in the 17th century, and the building you see today is a beautiful example of Canarian church architecture, blending Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements. Take some time to explore the interior – it’s surprisingly grand for such a small town.
• The Streets: Beyond the church, the best way to experience Betancuria is simply to wander. The narrow, cobbled streets are lined with whitewashed houses, many with traditional wooden balconies and charming courtyards. It’s a photographer’s paradise.
• Casa Santa María: This beautifully restored 17th-century house is now a museum and restaurant. It’s a great place to learn more about the history and culture of Betancuria, and to enjoy a traditional Canarian meal.
• Museo Arqueológico de Fuerteventura: If you’re interested in the island’s pre-Hispanic past, this small archaeological museum is worth a visit. It houses a collection of artifacts from the Mahos, the indigenous Guanche people who inhabited Fuerteventura before the conquest. You’ll find pottery, tools, and other objects that offer a glimpse into their lives.

Is Betancuria worth adding to your itinerary?

Betancuria was a real highlight of my Fuerteventura trip. It’s so different from the coastal resorts, and it offers a genuine sense of history and tranquility. It’s the kind of place where you can just slow down, breathe, and imagine what life on the island must have been like centuries ago. It’s a reminder that Fuerteventura has a rich and complex past, far beyond the beaches and sunshine.

Practical Tips:

Getting There: Betancuria is easily accessible by car. The roads are well-maintained, but be prepared for some winding mountain roads.

Parking: There’s parking available in the town, but it can get busy, especially during peak season.

Food & Drink: There are a few cafes and restaurants in Betancuria, offering traditional Canarian cuisine.

Is the view from Mirador del Risco de Las Peñas worth the drive?

Yes, it is an essential stop. The viewpoint offers a dramatic perspective of Fuerteventura’s rugged, volcanic landscape that completely contrasts with the flat coastal resorts.

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And just a short drive from Betancuria, don’t miss the Mirador del Risco de Las Peñas, another incredible viewpoint. The drive itself is spectacular. From this vantage point you’re treated to yet another different perspective on the stunning Fuerteventura landscape.

Is the inland Fuerteventura road trip better than the beach?

If you’re looking for genuine history and quiet landscapes, yes. The inland drive through Betancuria trades the crowded coastal tourist traps for empty mountain viewpoints, 15th-century architecture, and an authentic look at the Canaries.

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Exploring Betancuria and the surrounding villages and viewpoints is more than just a day trip; it’s a journey into the heart and soul of Fuerteventura. It’s a chance to connect with the island’s history, to appreciate its unique and often dramatic landscapes, and to experience a slower, more authentic way of life. If you’re looking for something more than just a beach holiday, if you want to discover the real Fuerteventura, then I urge you to explore this central region. You won’t regret it.

Have you been to Betancuria or central Fuerteventura? What were your impressions? Or is this somewhere you’d add to your Fuerteventura itinerary? Let me know in the comments below!

Thanks for reading/watching!