Alicante travel guide: skipping the Benidorm transfer

The short version: Millions of tourists treat Alicante purely as an airport for the high-rises of Benidorm, which is a massive mistake. If you actually step out of the terminal, you’ll find a genuinely great Spanish city with a colossal medieval fortress, authentic back streets hiding from the heat, and a daily market humming with local life. It’s got a surprisingly confident identity, and it is well worth exploring before you hit the resorts.

For millions of British holidaymakers, the name Alicante means one specific thing: an arrivals hall.

It is the functional gateway to the Costa Blanca. It is the place where you land, wrestle your luggage off the carousel, and immediately hop on a transfer coach or into a hire car, speeding straight past the city limits on your way to the high-rises of Benidorm or the villas of Torrevieja.

I’ve done it myself. I’ve treated Alicante as a logistics hub rather than a destination. But recently, as I watched the city skyline flicker past the window, I started wondering: What are we all driving past?

Is Alicante just a transit point? Or is it a genuinely great Spanish city that has been hiding in plain sight all this time? I decided to stop the car, get out, and spend some time exploring the city properly to find out.

What is the story behind the Explanada de España’s mosaic tiles?

The Explanada de España is Alicante’s iconic 600-metre promenade, famously paved with over 6.5 million red, cream, and black marble tiles. Built in the mid-20th century to mimic the rolling waves of the Mediterranean Sea, it serves as the city’s elegant main stage for the traditional evening stroll.

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If you are expecting a gritty port city or a cheap-and-cheerful resort town, your first five minutes in Alicante will be a shock to the system. My first impression? It is surprisingly, almost unapologetically, grand.

This feeling is largely down to the Explanada de España (Esplanade of Spain) — 600 metres of pavement laid out as a statement of intent.

Constructed in the mid-20th century, the promenade is paved with over 6.5 million marble tiles in red, cream, and black. They are laid in a mesmerizing wave pattern that mimics the Mediterranean Sea just metres away. Flanked by four rows of towering date palms, it creates a shaded, breezy tunnel that is undeniably elegant.

What’s it like walking the Explanada de España?

It’s just a really nice place for a walk: four rows of palms, cafés and restaurants set back from the road, and the marina right there with boat trips heading out. Then, at the far end, it turns into a park that’s essentially the same promenade with a dirt floor. It really looks like they ran out of mosaic, or money, or will — and after six and a half million tiles, can you blame them?

Walking here, you immediately tap into the Spanish tradition of the paseo—the evening stroll. It connects the port area to the old town and is flanked by manicured green spaces. I spent some time in Parc Canalejas, famed for its century-old ficus trees with roots so thick they look like melting wax, and the Plaça Gabriel Miró.

For me, Gabriel Miró was the standout square in the city. With its bubbling fountain, ancient trees, and quiet atmosphere, it felt a world away from the bustle of the airport.

What is the history behind Casa Carbonell?

Casa Carbonell was built in the 1920s by Enrique Carbonell, a textile merchant from Alcoy, and it comes with a revenge story attached. The legend goes that he was turned away from the hotel next door, so he built something far more ornate right beside it to make a point. I don’t know if it’s true, but I hope it is — revenge is a dish best served with lots of money.

Dominating the waterfront is a building that sums up Alicante’s confident attitude: the Casa Carbonell. It’s a stunning white Beaux-Arts building topped with blue domes that looks like a royal palace.

The story behind it is brilliant. It was built in the 1920s by Enrique Carbonell, a wealthy textile merchant from Alcoy. Legend has it that he arrived in Alicante dishevelled after a long journey and was refused a room at the luxury Hotel Palas next door because of his appearance. Furious, he bought the plot of land right next to the hotel and built a mansion grander and more ornate than the hotel itself, just to make a point. That is the kind of petty, high-stakes architectural drama I can get behind.

How do you get to the top of the Castell de Santa Bárbara?

You can reach the top of the colossal Castell de Santa Bárbara by either hiking up the mountain for an hour or paying a couple of euros to take the lift. Be warned that the lift queue runs through a seriously sweaty rock tunnel that feels like an oven in the midday heat.

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You can reach the top of the Castell de Santa Bárbara by either hiking for an hour up Mount Benacantil, or by paying a few euros to ride the high-speed lift from opposite Postiguet beach. While the lift is much faster, be prepared to queue in a sweltering rock tunnel during the peak summer months.

To truly understand the layout and history of Alicante, you cannot stay at sea level. You have to look up. The city is dominated by Mount Benacantil, a colossal rock formation that rises 166 metres out of the sea.

If you look at the rock profile from the beach at a specific angle, locals will tell you it looks like a face in profile—known as La Cara del Moro (“The Moor’s Face”). Sitting right on top of the “head” is one of Spain’s largest medieval fortresses: the Castell de Santa Bàrbera.

Should you walk up to Castell de Santa Bárbara or take the lift?

You can walk up. There are winding paths up the mountain that take about an hour. However, if it’s the middle of the day in July or August, I wouldn’t recommend it unless you enjoy heatstroke.

The most direct route is the Ascensor (lift).

• Location: You catch it from opposite the Postiguet beach.
• Cost: The castle entry is free, but the lift costs a few Euros (around €2.70 last I checked).
• Tip: In peak season, the tunnel leading to the lift can get incredibly hot and humid while you queue. Bring water.

What can you see from the top of Castell de Santa Bárbara?

The whole story of Alicante in one look. Right below you’ve got the port and the dense maze of the old town. Further out is the ring of high-rise apartment blocks that went up when cheap air travel arrived in the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s, and Alicante, with its airport and port, became the engine room of the package-holiday boom. A lot of it looks like it was built in the same period — when design and style went out the window.

Once those lift doors open and you step out onto the ramparts, the view is genuinely staggering. This is where the story of Alicante makes sense.

Looking down, you see the dense, terracotta-tiled maze of the Old Town huddled under the protective walls of the fortress. This represents the city’s ancient history—strategic, defensive, and tight-knit.

But lift your gaze, and you see the explosion. You can physically see the moment the package holiday boom arrived. The coastline is lined with a ring of high-rise apartment blocks.

When cheap air travel arrived in the 1960s and 70s, this region changed forever. Alicante became the engine room for the Costa Blanca. While some might call the concrete skyline “ugly,” I think it’s fascinating. It’s a geological layer of history—the “Tourism Layer.” It explains why the airport is so big and why the port is so busy.

Where is the true heart of Alicante’s Old Town?

The true character of Alicante is found tucked under the castle walls in the Casco Historico (Old Town) and the Santa Cruz neighbourhood. Instead of busy roads, you will find steep, pedestrian-only staircases lined with white houses, colourful ceramic tiles, and hundreds of potted geraniums.

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A view is great, but to find the character of a city, you have to walk the streets. Descending from the castle, you land in the Casco Historico (Old Town), known locally as El Barrio.

This area centres around the Plaça de l’Ajuntament (Town Hall Square), a beautiful baroque civic space. But if you want the real charm, you need to head upwards again, into the Santa Cruz neighbourhood.

What is Alicante’s Santa Cruz neighbourhood like?

Santa Cruz feels like a completely different town. It sits on the steep slopes of Mount Benacantil, which means there are no cars here—the streets are actually steep staircases.

Walking up Calle San Rafael, you realise this isn’t a museum piece; it’s a living, breathing neighbourhood.

• The Vibe: It’s quiet, domestic, and incredibly pretty.
• The Look: Houses are painted in white with bright blue or yellow trims. There are ceramic tiles everywhere.
• The Details: Almost every house is adorned with potted geraniums and bougainvillea. You’ll see laundry hanging from balconies and hear radios playing from open windows.

It is a bit of a climb—my calves were definitely feeling it—but keep going until you hit the Mirador de la Santa Cruz. It’s a smaller, more intimate viewpoint than the castle, perfect for watching the sunset over the city roofs.

Why is the Mercat Central the best place for local culture?

The Mercat Central is a massive 1920s two-story market where actual residents do their weekly grocery shopping. Instead of catering to tourists, it is absolutely humming with genuine local life, noise, and smells, offering a proper slice of daily Alicante culture.

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The Mercat Central is the ultimate spot for authentic daily life because it is where locals actually do their weekly shop, rather than a tourist trap selling fridge magnets. Housed in a massive 1920s Art Nouveau building, this two-storey market is a loud, bustling hub filled with fresh seafood, local produce, and traditional nougat.

If Santa Cruz is the soul of Alicante, the Mercat Central d’Alacant (Central Market) is its stomach.

Located in a massive Art Nouveau building from the 1920s, this place is an assault on the senses in the best possible way. It’s two storeys of chaos, commerce, and incredible food.

This isn’t a tourist trap selling fridge magnets. This is where Alicantinos do their weekly shop.

• What to see: The fish market in the basement is spectacular (and smelly). The fruit stalls upstairs are piled high with local tomatoes and citrus.
• What to try: Look out for Turrón (nougat), which is famous in this region (specifically from nearby Jijona).
• Historical Note: While the market is vibrant today, it has a dark history. On May 25, 1938, during the Spanish Civil War, it was bombed by the Italian Air Force. Over 300 civilians were killed. There is a small memorial clock inside frozen at the time the bombs fell. It’s a sobering reminder of the city’s scars amidst the bustle.

Top Tip: Come here for “Almuerzo” (a mid-morning snack). Grab a Bocadillo (baguette sandwich) and just soak up the noise.

Does Alicante have a modern cultural and coffee scene?

Yes, and it’s definitely not stuck in the past. There’s a proper specialty coffee scene, the Museum of Contemporary Art (MACA) is usually free and nice and cool when the midday sun gets too much, and if you’re here in June, the whole city comes to life for the Hogueras de San Juan festival.

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One of my big fears was that Alicante would feel dated—stuck in the 1980s package holiday era. I was wrong. The city has a very distinct modern pulse.

Is there good coffee in Alicante?

My unscientific test for a city’s modernity is its coffee scene. Can you get a flat white that doesn’t taste like UHT milk and burnt rubber? Alicante passes with flying colours.

• Madness Coffee: Great industrial vibe.
• Swallow: Excellent specialty roasts.
• Donde Emma: A lovely, cosy spot. Finding these places shows that there is a younger, more cosmopolitan demographic living here.

Where can you escape the midday heat in Alicante?

If you need to escape the midday sun, head to the MACA (Museum of Contemporary Art). It’s located in the oldest civil building in the city (a 17th-century granary) right next to the Santa Maria Basilica. The contrast is cool—ancient stone walls housing works by Picasso, Dalí, and Miró. And best of all? Entry is usually free.

What happens during the Hogueras de San Juan festival?

If you visit in June, the entire city comes alive for the Hogueras de San Juan. It is a massive street party featuring parades and incredible papier-mâché effigies that are ceremoniously burned on the final night to celebrate the city’s vibrant identity.

If you can time your visit for late June, you are in for a treat. The Hogueras de San Juan (Bonfires of Saint John) is Alicante’s answer to Valencia’s Fallas. The city fills with massive, satirical papier-mâché statues which are displayed for a few days and then ceremoniously burned to the ground on the night of June 24th. It’s chaotic, loud, and visually spectacular.

How does San Juan beach compare to the busy city centre?

While Playa del Postiguet is incredibly convenient right in the city centre, it gets fiercely crowded and finding towel space becomes a competitive sport in summer. In contrast, San Juan beach offers a massive 7-kilometre stretch of wide, golden sand with plenty of room, easily reachable in 20 minutes via Alicante’s air-conditioned tram network.

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You can’t talk about Alicante without mentioning the beach. You have two main options, and they serve very different purposes.

1. Playa del Postiguet

• Where: Right in the city centre, at the foot of the castle.
• Pros: Incredibly convenient. You can walk from the Old Town to the sand in 5 minutes.
• Cons: It gets rammed. In summer, finding towel space is a competitive sport. The water is clean, but it’s busy.

2. San Juan Playa

• Where: About 7km north of the city.
• Pros: This is a proper beach. It’s 7km of golden sand, wide open, with plenty of room.
• How to get there: This is the best part. Alicante has an excellent TRAM system.

How long does the tram take from Alicante to San Juan beach?

About 20 minutes from the city centre, and the tram drops you at San Juan, a 7km stretch of golden sand with plenty of space — well worth the short trip when the city beach is rammed. It’s cheap, air-conditioned and far less hassle than driving and hunting for somewhere to park.

The tram network (TRAM Metropolitano de Alicante) is clean, cheap, and air-conditioned.

• Take Line 1, 3, or 4 from the Luceros or Mercado stations.
• It takes about 20 minutes to get to San Juan.
• You buy tickets from machines at the station (cards accepted). It’s much easier and less stressful than driving and parking.

Is Alicante safe, and what is the best time to visit?

Alicante is generally very safe to walk around at night, though you should always watch for pickpockets in busy tourist areas like the market or beach. The best time to visit is May, June, September, or October to avoid the fierce 35°C+ heat and massive crowds of peak summer.

• Airport Transfer: The C6 Bus runs from the airport to the city centre every 20 minutes. It’s cheap (under €4) and reliable. It drops you right by the harbour or the market.
• Safety: I walked everywhere, including the backstreets of Santa Cruz at night, and never felt unsafe. As with any Spanish city, watch your pockets in the busy market or on the beach, but generally, it feels very secure.
• Best Time to Visit: I’d suggest May/June or September/October. July and August are fiercely hot (often 35°C+) and very crowded with domestic Spanish tourists.

Where to stay in Alicante

Do not make the mistake of booking a generic beach tower block just because it popped up first on a package holiday site. To actually feel the rhythm of this city, you need to choose your neighborhood wisely. Dropping yourself into the narrow, traffic-free alleys of the historic old town means swapping elevator access for stone staircases and waking up to the smell of fresh panaderias. If you prefer a bit of breathing room and grander architecture, the grid of streets radiating from the central esplanade offers a more sophisticated, local residential vibe while keeping the sea in sight.

The independent stay scene here has quietly evolved, moving far beyond the uninspired transit motels of the past. The mid-range sweet spot is dominated by design-forward guest houses and converted merchant townhouses that embrace the city’s crisp light and retro tilework. If you want to splurge, skip the corporate chains altogether and look for the boutique hotels occupying restored 19th-century palaces near the town hall. You will get rooftop terraces facing the fortress walls and a level of curation that matches the city’s confident new identity.

Browse my Alicante hotel picks on Expedia →

The Verdict

So, to answer the question I started with: Is Alicante worth visiting?

Absolutely. It hits a sweet spot that few other cities manage. It has the authentic history and “pueblo” feel of the Old Town, the grand architecture of a wealthy port, a genuine local vibe in the market, and a stunning beach right on the doorstep.

It is not just a transport hub. It is a city that deserves your attention.

If you stick to the marina, you’ll have a nice time. But if you climb the stairs of Santa Cruz, eat in the Central Market, and take the tram up the coast, you’ll discover a proper Spanish city that is comfortable in its own skin.

Next time you land at the airport, don’t just grab the transfer to Benidorm. Stay a couple of nights. You might be surprised by what you find.

Have you ever stopped in Alicante, or do you usually drive straight past? Let me know your experiences in the comments below!