The short version: The GC-210 and GC-606 from La Aldea up to Tejeda are about 27 km of mountain road, much of it more track than road. It’s roughly an hour without stops, though I took about two. If you’re a confident driver, it’s one of Gran Canaria‘s quietest, most spectacular drives: goats, a giant rock that turned out not to be Roque Nublo, and Tenerife across the water. If you’re not, let a tour minivan do the hairpins.
Gran Canaria gets called a “miniature continent”, and most visitors only ever see the beach bit. Apparently, if you haven’t been up to Roque Nublo, you can’t say you’ve been to Gran Canaria at all, and in three trips I never had. So this was the fix: up from La Aldea on the GC-210 and GC-606 into the middle of the island, finishing in Tejeda. (Spoiler: I still haven’t been to Roque Nublo.)
Why is the GC-210 road considered dangerous?
The GC-210 is notoriously dangerous because it feels more like a narrow track carved into the rock face than a proper road. It is a single-track route with severe blind switchbacks, sheer drops, and very few passing places if you meet oncoming traffic.
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The GC-210 is notoriously challenging because it is less of a proper road and more of a single-track path carved directly into the rock face. It features blind hairpin bends, steep gradients, and very few passing places. It was even used as a filming location for a high-speed pursuit in Fast and Furious 6, which tells you everything you need to know about its extreme twists and turns.
It’s not a road I’d recommend unless you’re a reasonably confident driver. It gets called the Fast and Furious road, but I definitely wasn’t fast. The little Citroen was working hard on every climb, and I was just glad not to meet anyone coming the other way on the narrow bits.
Navigating the Twists and Turns
The GC-210 is generally well-maintained, but be prepared for occasional rough patches and uneven surfaces. The road’s seclusion adds to its charm, offering a sense of tranquility as you navigate through stunning gorges and ascend towards Artenara.
Views that Will Take Your Breath Away
The payoff starts early. Ten minutes up the GC-210, it already doesn’t feel like somewhere a road should go. It’s just mountains on every side, which, to be fair, is exactly where I was. One more crazy switchback later, I could see the big rock I was heading for, way off in the distance.
Challenges to Keep in Mind
- Narrow lanes and hairpin bends: The road is often barely wide enough for two cars, and the frequent hairpin bends require careful maneuvering.
- Steep gradients: Be prepared for steep climbs and descents that can test your vehicle’s brakes.
- Blind corners: The winding nature of the road means you’ll encounter many blind corners. Drive cautiously and use your horn to alert oncoming traffic.
- Occasional traffic: While generally quiet, the GC-210 can experience traffic, especially during peak season or when tour buses are on the route.
- Weather conditions: Strong winds and occasional rain can make driving conditions more challenging.
- Road closures: Parts of the GC-210 have been closed in the past due to landslides or rockfalls. Check for any road closures or restrictions before you go.
Did You Know? The GC-210 was featured in the film Fast and Furious 6 during a high-speed pursuit sequence.
Points of Interest Along the GC-210
- Cave dwellings: Some of the cave dwellings nestled into the rocky terrain along the GC-210 are available for rent, offering a unique accommodation experience.
- Acusa Seca: This cave village provides a glimpse into the island’s history and culture.
- Presa de Parralillo: Keep an eye out for this emerald green reservoir.
How difficult is driving the GC-606 Valley of Tears?
Driving the GC-606 is an intense, isolating experience that demands absolute focus. The road is incredibly steep and narrow—often resembling a mountain cycle track—with rapid altitude changes that will constantly pop your ears.
The GC-606 takes the danger of the GC-210 and amplifies it. Over its 12-kilometre stretch, you will face extreme narrowness with zero safety barriers and sheer drop-offs right beside your tyres. It is an isolated, punishing drive where your ears will constantly pop from the rapid altitude changes, but it rewards you with completely unspoiled views of Gran Canaria’s volcanic interior.
Branching off from the GC-210, the GC-606, known as the “Valley of Tears,” takes the driving adventure to a whole new level. This road is not for the faint of heart!
A Test of Nerves and Driving Skills
The GC-606 is only 12 kilometers long, but its extreme narrowness and lack of safety barriers can make it a slow and challenging drive. The sheer drops along the route add to the thrill (or anxiety!).
Scenery that Rewards the Brave
What you get for your nerves is the GC-606’s scenery: little houses dotted on the hillsides, a big valley opening out below, a goat crossing (the only traffic jam I hit), and eventually a huge volcanic rock that I was convinced was Roque Nublo. It’s so quiet up there, and so isolated, it’s beautiful.
Challenges on the GC-606
- Extreme narrowness: The road is exceptionally narrow, requiring precise driving.
- Lack of barriers: The absence of safety barriers along much of the route adds to the sense of exposure.
- Steep drops: Stay focused to avoid any mishaps along the significant drop-offs.
- Limited passing opportunities: Patience is key on this narrow road.
Important Note: The sun can be a bigger problem than the drops. Climbing the GC-606 in the morning, you’re angled straight up into it as it comes over the rocks, and my sunglasses and the Citroen’s little visor weren’t up to much. Save the views for the gravel pull-ins. Most of these switchbacks are tight enough that you want both eyes on the road.
Is the giant rock on the GC-606 actually Roque Nublo?
No, and I found that out the embarrassing way. Partway up the GC-606, the road brings you out in front of a towering rock, with a little house far below it for scale. It’s supposed to be a half-hour hike to get a good view of Roque Nublo, and it looked like I’d just driven straight to the view. It isn’t Roque Nublo at all. I still haven’t been, so that’s my excuse to go back.
My guess, as someone who probably should have read up first, is that it’s what’s left of a volcano: the channel that ran up the middle, still standing after thousands of years wore everything around it away. Whatever it is, it’s one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen, and you can make out Tenerife on the horizon from the same spot.
Is the dangerous drive to Tejeda worth the effort?
Absolutely, as long as you are a confident driver. Surviving the nerve-wracking switchbacks rewards you with complete isolation, incredible volcanic views, and an authentic side of Gran Canaria that the southern coastal resorts completely miss.
For the drive itself, yes. Coming up this way shows you a side of Gran Canaria most visitors miss: that huge volcanic rock, views across to Tenerife‘s Mount Teide, Spain’s highest mountain, and almost nobody else apart from a couple of goat farmers. Whether Tejeda lives up to its billing is another question.
The journey from La Aldea to Tejeda via the GC-210 and GC-606 is a thrilling adventure that combines challenging driving with stunning scenery.
- Starting in La Aldea: You’ll ascend the GC-210, enjoying the views of the ocean and cliffs.
- Climbing Higher: The landscape transforms, revealing deep gorges and volcanic rock formations.
- Passing through Artenara: Take a break in Artenara, the highest village in Gran Canaria.
- Turning onto the GC-606: The adventure intensifies as you descend into the “Valley of Tears.”
- Conquering the GC-606: Navigate the narrow lanes and sheer drops, enjoying glimpses of white villages and Roque Palmés.
- Reaching Tejeda: Rejoin the GC-210 and continue towards Tejeda, a picturesque mountain village.
Alternative Routes and Transportation
If the GC-210 and GC-606 sound like too much, you don’t have to drive them. I saw little minivans of tour groups on the way up, so you can let someone else handle the hairpins and just look at the views. Honestly, that’s not much of a downgrade. I took a different road back down towards Mogán, and while it’s still windy and mountainous, it’s nowhere near as crazy.
Is Tejeda really the most beautiful town in Spain?
Allegedly. Tejeda gets billed as one of the most beautiful towns in Spain and the most beautiful in Gran Canaria — there’s always one. My first view, right next to the town sign, was a petrol station. I arrived at 10am in cloud, the place looked pretty grey, and Google Maps tried to send me up a no-entry road, so I gave up and used the little free car park instead.
Once the sun came out, Tejeda made its case. The best thing about it is the setting. It’s built on the side of the mountain, with steep, narrow streets dropping down through the La Tosca neighbourhood, orange flowers everywhere and a view that goes down a long way. Up top there’s the church, a square raised above a car park and a yellow police station, and the church bells went off at six minutes past eleven. Of course. I think it’s pretty nice. Whether it’s the most beautiful town in Spain, I’ll let you decide.
Conclusion
Driving the GC-210 and GC-606 in Gran Canaria is an unforgettable experience. These roads offer a unique perspective of the island’s rugged beauty, taking you through narrow lanes, hairpin bends, and dramatic elevation changes. While the challenges are real, the rewards are well worth it for adventurous drivers. Remember to drive cautiously, be aware of the potential hazards, and enjoy the thrill of the ride!
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a 4×4 to drive the GC-606?
No, you do not need a 4×4. I drove the entire route in a standard little Citroen rental. It worked hard on the steep gradients, but as long as you are a confident driver and take your time, a regular compact car is fine.
Are there traffic jams on Gran Canaria’s single-track mountain roads?
Not jams, but it gets busier as the morning goes on. I set off just before 8am, and by the big rock viewpoint I’d passed only three cars (one of them the road maintenance crew) plus a goat crossing. After that, more cars started appearing. That’s reassuring, since I wasn’t the only idiot crazy enough, but it means more passing at the narrow bits.
Where was Fast and Furious 6 filmed in Gran Canaria?
Several scenes for Fast and Furious 6 were filmed along the GC-210. The production took advantage of the road’s desolate, rocky landscape and its incredibly tight, cliff-edge hairpins.
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Several of the high-speed pursuit scenes for the movie were filmed on the GC-210, taking advantage of its winding, dramatic cliffside turns and rugged gorge scenery.
Are cafes open early in Tejeda village?
Earlier than I expected. I got to Tejeda at 10am assuming it’d be shut, but a few places were already open. I ordered an oat milk coffee at Dulceria Nublo and, after the woman serving decided I was lactose intolerant, ended up with a very dry almond biscuit. The thought was nice.
The bigger catch at that time of day is the weather. Tejeda was sitting in cloud when I arrived and looked pretty grey, and it only looked its best once the sun broke through later in the morning. The sun makes all the difference up there.
Can you see Tenerife from Gran Canaria’s mountains?
Yes, on a clear day from the high mountain viewpoints along the GC-606, you can see straight across the Atlantic Ocean to Tenerife. Mount Teide is so prominent that its peak often looks like it is floating above the cloud line.
Yes, on a clear day from the high-altitude viewpoints along the GC-606 and near Tejeda, you can easily see across the Atlantic to the peaks of Tenerife and Mount Teide.
Are the GC-210 or GC-606 roads closed?
Both the GC-210 and GC-606 are prone to temporary closures due to landslides and rockfalls, particularly after heavy rain or strong winds. Because these are isolated single-track mountain passes, a closure means you will have to turn around and face a long detour, so always check local Gran Canaria traffic advisories before driving up from La Aldea.