Czechia Beyond Prague: My Road Trip Through a Land of Castles, Colourful Towns, and Great Beer

The short version: While Prague is undeniably magnificent, the real heart of Czechia lies in its smaller towns and second cities. Renting a car allows you to explore historic gems like the beer capital of Pilsen, the perfectly preserved Renaissance square in Telč, the bone-filled ossuaries of Brno, and hardcore medieval strongholds like Pernštejn Castle without the crushing tourist crowds.

So, Czechia. When you hear the name, I’d bet good money that the first image that flashes into your mind is Prague. The Charles Bridge at dawn, the astronomical clock, the castle overlooking the Vltava. And you wouldn’t be wrong – Prague is a world-class city, no doubt about it.

But I’ve always been curious about what lies beyond the capital cities. What happens when you leave the well-trodden tourist paths, get in a car, and just… drive? I had a feeling there was more to this country than one (admittedly magnificent) city. I wanted to see the workaday towns, the landscapes, the places that tell a different part of the nation’s story.

It turns out, my hunch was right. There’s a whole country out there, full of incredible history, architecture that will make you stop and stare, and a character that feels distinctly different from the hustle of the capital. If you’re wondering what lies away from the main crowds, this is what I found.

The Plan: An Unconventional Czech Road Trip

The idea was simple: rent a car and create a loop that would take me through the historic region of Bohemia and into Moravia in the east. The whole point was to explore a bit of everything – a famous town or two, but also some spots that fly under the radar. Having a car gives you a freedom that train schedules just can’t match; the ability to pull over at a village that looks interesting or detour to a castle you spot on a hill.

This isn’t an exhaustive, definitive guide. It’s just a rundown of what I saw and what I thought of it all, a personal account of a journey through the heart of Central Europe. It’s a mix of handsome towns, a proper city, and some seriously impressive castles. Let’s get started.

First Stops in Bohemia: Pilsen & Písek

My journey began by heading west from Prague, into the heart of Bohemia. The first couple of stops offered a perfect introduction to the history and charm that characterise this region.

Is Pilsen worth visiting for more than just beer?

Yes. While Pilsen is the legendary birthplace of pale lager and a mandatory stop for brewery tours, the city also boasts an incredibly handsome historic centre. Its main square, Náměstí Republiky, is one of the largest in Europe and provides a solid introduction to Czech architecture without the capital’s crowds.

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First proper stop: Pilsen (or Plzeň in Czech). Now, it’s no secret where the city’s fame comes from. This is the birthplace of the Pilsner beer style, and for a beer lover, a visit feels almost like a mandatory pilgrimage. In 1842, the brewers here created the world’s first pale lager, Pilsner Urquell, and changed the world of beer forever. Visiting the brewery is, as you’d expect, a fascinating experience.

But honestly, I was more impressed by the city itself. Beyond the brewery gates, Pilsen has a really handsome historic centre. The main square, Náměstí Republiky (Republic Square), is enormous – genuinely one of the biggest I’ve ever seen in Europe. It’s dominated by the towering St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral and surrounded by lovely old buildings. It felt like a good, solid introduction to what Czech towns have to offer: a dose of important history, beautiful architecture, and, of course, a pint of the freshest beer you’ll ever have.

Practical Tips for Pilsen:

• Brewery Tour: Book your Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour online in advance, especially during peak season. It gets busy.
• Parking: There are several paid car parks around the city centre. It’s easiest to park and walk the last 5-10 minutes into the main square.
• Beyond Beer: Don’t miss the Great Synagogue, one of the largest in Europe, and the historic underground tunnels.

Where is the oldest stone bridge in Czechia?

The oldest stone bridge in Czechia is located in Písek, roughly 100 kilometres south of Prague. Spanning the Otava River, this 13th-century structure actually predates the famous Charles Bridge and offers a beautifully quiet, relaxed alternative to Prague’s packed tourist hotspots.

Not far down the road, I pulled into the much smaller town of Písek. I’d read that this place laid claim to the oldest stone bridge in the country, the Kamenný most. Older than the Charles Bridge in Prague? That’s quite a claim, and I had to see it.

And there it was. Spanning the Otava River, it’s not grand or festooned with statues like its famous Prague counterpart. Instead, it feels sturdy, ancient, and deeply rooted in its place. There’s an incredible sense of history just standing on it, thinking of the countless generations who have crossed it since the 13th century. The town itself is quiet and has a lovely, relaxed feel. It was the perfect spot to just take a breather, wander along the river, and soak in a bit of proper old Bohemia without a crowd in sight.

Is Český Krumlov a tourist trap or worth visiting?

Yes, Český Krumlov is undeniably touristy, but its sheer architectural beauty makes it absolutely worth visiting. Wrapped in a tight bend of the Vltava River and dominated by an enormous medieval castle complex, the perfectly preserved town looks like a fairytale film set, especially if you stay overnight to beat the day-trippers.

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Alright, next was the big one: Český Krumlov. This one is definitely on the tourist map, and for very good reason. The entire town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and arriving there feels like you’ve accidentally driven onto a film set for a historical epic.

The old town is squeezed into a tight hairpin bend of the Vltava River, with an enormous castle and chateau complex looming over it from a rocky outcrop. It is touristy, there’s simply no getting away from that. The narrow, cobbled lanes are filled with souvenir shops and tour groups. But sometimes, places are popular because they are genuinely spectacular, and Krumlov is one of them.

The sheer prettiness of the architecture, with its mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque houses, is undeniable. For me, the real charm was in the details: the beautifully painted facades (sgraffito), the sound of the river bustling with canoers below, and the breathtaking views you get from the castle ramparts. The castle itself is a vast complex of courtyards, palaces, and gardens that you can spend hours exploring.

Practical Tips for Český Krumlov:

• Beat the Crowds: The town is swamped with day-trippers. To experience its magic, stay overnight. The early mornings and late evenings are wonderfully peaceful.
• Parking: The old town is pedestrian-only. You must use one of the large, designated car parks (P1, P2, etc.) on the outskirts. They’re well-signposted and a short walk from the centre.
• Best View: For that classic postcard shot, head to the Seminární zahrada (Seminary Garden) viewpoint.

Why is the town square in Telč so famous?

Telč is famous for its immaculately preserved, triangular town square, which is lined with colourful Renaissance and Baroque facades linked by a continuous arcade. Following a devastating fire in 1530, the town’s wealthy residents competed to rebuild their homes, resulting in a UNESCO-protected plaza that feels almost too perfect to be real.

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From the delightful chaos of Krumlov, I headed east towards Telč (pronounced ‘Telch’). This place was a complete revelation. It’s another UNESCO World Heritage site, but it’s famous for one very specific, very special feature: its town square.

Zachariáš of Hradec Square is unlike any I’ve seen before. It’s a long, triangular plaza surrounded by immaculately preserved Renaissance and Baroque townhouses, each painted in a different pastel shade and linked by a continuous arcade. The story goes that after a devastating fire in 1530, the town’s wealthy residents competed with each other to rebuild their homes in the most beautiful and ornate style. The result is a jaw-dropping, harmonious panorama of gables and colourful facades that feels almost too perfect to be real.

It’s smaller and felt much calmer than Krumlov. Walking under the arcades, popping into little shops and cafes, it felt less like a tourist attraction and more like a perfectly preserved moment in time. A truly unique spot.

Is Brno a good alternative to Prague?

Brno is a fantastic, gritty alternative to Prague if you want a dose of reality over curated tourist paths. As Czechia’s second city, it swaps medieval museum vibes for a buzzing university energy, offering historic landmarks like Špilberk Castle alongside a genuinely eerie underground ossuary filled with thousands of skulls.

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After several days exploring beautifully preserved historic towns, it was time for a change of pace. I pointed the car towards Brno, Czechia’s second city and the capital of the Moravian region. It has a completely different energy – this is a living, breathing, working city, but one that still holds a fascinating historic core.

I spent my time exploring landmarks like Špilberk Castle, a former fortress and notorious prison that has a commanding presence on a hilltop overlooking the city. Then there was the magnificent Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul on Petrov Hill, whose twin spires dominate the skyline.

But what I really liked about Brno was its buzz. It’s a major university city, and you can feel that youthful energy on the streets, in the countless cool cafes, and in the bustling public squares like Zelný trh (the Cabbage Market). It felt like a place where people actually live and work, not just visit. It provided a brilliant and necessary contrast to the smaller, more curated spots I’d seen so far.

Practical Tips for Brno:

• Good Base: Brno is a great base for exploring the wider Moravia region, including its wine country to the south.
• Getting Around: The city has an excellent and easy-to-use tram system. Park the car and use public transport to get around the centre.
• Don’t Miss: The eerie Capuchin Crypt and the Villa Tugendhat, a masterpiece of modernist architecture (book tickets months in advance).

Fortress and Faith: Castles & Kutná Hora

You can’t really do a proper Czech road trip without dedicating some time to its castles. The country is said to have over 2,000 of them, and I managed to squeeze in a couple of outstanding examples, along with a final stop at one of the country’s most important religious buildings.

Veveří & Pernštejn Castles

Not far from Brno, I visited Veveří Castle. It’s a huge, sprawling fortress that sits dramatically on a promontory overlooking the Brno Reservoir. It has a long and complex history, having been everything from a royal hunting lodge to a wartime prison. The setting is what makes it so memorable.

Then there was Pernštejn Castle. This one looked like it had been pulled straight from a fantasy film. It’s a proper, hardcore medieval stronghold, built from stone and perched defiantly on a rock. It has a raw, unconquered feel, largely because it’s one of the best-preserved castles in the country and was never taken by force. Its high, narrow towers and thick walls give you a real sense of what these defensive structures were truly like centuries ago.

Why was Kutná Hora so important to the Czech Kingdom?

During the Middle Ages, Kutná Hora was essentially the treasury of the Czech Kingdom, directly rivaling Prague thanks to its immense silver mines. That staggering wealth funded the town’s architectural masterpiece, St. Barbara’s Cathedral, a breathtaking High Gothic structure dedicated to the patron saint of miners.

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The last major stop of the trip was Kutná Hora. In the Middle Ages, this town was arguably the second most important place in the entire Kingdom of Bohemia. The reason? Silver. The immense wealth generated from its silver mines funded the kingdom and made Kutná Hora a direct rival to Prague.

The most spectacular result of all that wealth and ambition is St. Barbara’s Cathedral. Dedicated to the patron saint of miners, this is a breathtaking masterpiece of High Gothic architecture. It took over 500 years to complete, and you can feel the weight of that history and human endeavour as you stand inside. Looking up at the soaring, web-like vaults and gazing at the forest of flying buttresses outside, you can’t help but be impressed. It was a seriously impressive end to the historical sightseeing part of the journey. (And yes, for those wondering, Kutná Hora is also home to the famous Sedlec Ossuary, or “Bone Church,” which is an entirely different, but equally memorable, experience).

Final Thoughts on a Czech Adventure

So, that’s a quick spin through some of the places I visited on my Czech road trip. As you can see, the moment you get out of Prague, the country opens up to reveal a whole load of different experiences. You’ll find historic towns with their own unique stories, mighty castles that look like they belong in a storybook, and energetic cities with their own distinct character.

For me, it was a fantastic reminder that there’s always more to a country than its most famous city. It’s in these smaller towns and second cities that you often get a quieter, perhaps more authentic, feel for a place. Hopefully, this has given you a taster of what else Czechia has to offer if you fancy a similar adventure. It’s a journey I’d recommend in a heartbeat.

What have I missed? What are your favourite spots beyond Prague? Let me know in the comments below – I’m always looking for ideas for the next trip.