The short version: Forget the Hollywood stereotypes and grim narco tours. Today’s Medellín is a vibrant, safe, and highly innovative city that has stitched itself back together using brilliant public transport like the Metrocable. With the inspiring street art of Comuna 13, the massive sculptures of Plaza Botero, and fantastic nightlife in El Poblado, it is a city looking firmly forward.
On this page8 sections
- Why should you skip the Pablo Escobar narco tours in Medellín?
- How did public transport and the Metro reinvent Medellín?
- Where should you stay in Medellín: El Poblado or Laureles?
- Where to stay in Medellín
- What is the real story of modern Medellín?
- What do you need to know before visiting Medellín?
- Frequently asked questions
- How does the reality of Medellín compare to the narco TV shows?
Medellín. Let’s be honest, when you hear that name, a very specific image probably pops into your head. It’s an image carefully curated by a dozen Netflix shows and Hollywood films – all sprawling mansions, shady backroom deals, and one infamous bloke with a moustache. It’s a story that has been packaged, dramatised, and turned into global entertainment.
But if you think you know this place because you’ve binged the box sets, I can tell you right now, you’re wrong.
I went to Medellín with those same images in my head, but what I found was a city with a story far more powerful than any screenwriter could invent. The real story of Medellín isn’t about how one man tried to tear it down. It’s about how millions of ordinary people fought to get their city back, and the incredible, inspiring, and creative place that has emerged from the ashes. This is the story of that transformation.
Why should you skip the Pablo Escobar narco tours in Medellín?
The grim ‘narco tours’ capitalise on a sensationalised TV version of history that most locals despise. Instead of glorifying cartel violence, the city has actively transformed its darkest sites—like tearing down Escobar’s former Mónaco building to create a memorial park dedicated to the 46,000 official victims.
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My journey, like that of many international visitors, started in El Poblado. This is the modern, polished face of Medellín. With its leafy green streets, boutique cafes, and gleaming high-rises, it’s where the money is. It feels calm, safe, and orderly – a world away from the city’s notorious old reputation. It’s a comfortable place to start, but to truly understand the Medellín of today, you have to first confront its past.
And that story begins on a quiet patch of green in this very neighbourhood, a place that was once the site of the infamous Mónaco building.
What replaced Escobar’s Mónaco building in El Poblado?
The Mónaco wasn’t just another block of flats. It was the eight-storey fortress, the nerve centre of Pablo Escobar’s entire operation and home for his family. In 1988, the rival Cali Cartel detonated a car bomb outside, an event that marked a major escalation in the narco wars. For decades after, the battle-scarred, semi-derelict building just stood there. It became a grim tourist landmark, a magnet for the so-called ‘narco-tours’ that glorified its violent owner.
But Medellín is a city determined to write its own future. In 2019, the city authorities made a powerful statement: they demolished the Mónaco building. And in its place, they built this: the Inflexión Memorial Park.
This park is not for him. It is for his victims.
Walking through it is a deeply sobering experience. A long, black granite wall is pierced with 46,612 holes, each one representing an official victim of the cartel violence between 1983 and 1994. Some names are etched beside the holes, but most are left anonymous, a silent testament to the scale of the loss. It’s a place that forces you to stop and think, to comprehend the human cost behind the headlines. This isn’t entertainment; it’s remembrance. By tearing down a symbol of violence and creating a space for reflection, the city closed one chapter and began to tell a different story.
Is La Catedral worth visiting on a Medellín narco tour?
Of course, the ghost of that one man still fuels a whole industry here. Curious to see this side of things, I took a drive up into the mountains overlooking the city to the site of La Catedral.
This was Escobar’s self-designed “prison,” which he agreed to be incarcerated in after cutting a deal with the Colombian government. In reality, it was a fortress-resort. It had a football pitch, a bar, a jacuzzi, and a telescope through which he could look down upon the city he still effectively controlled. The whole arrangement was a farcical symbol of how corrupted the state had become.
Today, the site is run by Benedictine monks who have turned it into a monastery and a peaceful retreat for the elderly. The view from up here is breathtaking, stretching across the entire Aburrá Valley. But standing there, you can’t help but feel the chilling audacity of it all – a man so powerful he could literally build his gilded cage and watch over his empire from above.
Is Medellín dangerous like the narco TV shows portray?
The final stop on this kind of grim tour is his grave, in a cemetery on the outskirts of the city. It was a strange experience. After the quiet dignity of the Inflexión Memorial Park, seeing fresh flowers laid on the grave of the man responsible for so much pain was a jarring contrast. It felt like stepping back into the TV show version of history, where the lines between villain and folk hero are blurred. For some, he’s still remembered for building football pitches and handing out cash. For the vast majority, he represents a national trauma. But this complex, unsettling part of the city’s history is not the real story of Medellín today. Not even close.
How did public transport and the Metro reinvent Medellín?
Medellín’s incredibly clean Metro system acts as the absolute pride of the city and the engine of its rebirth. Guided by a social contract known as ‘Metro Culture’, it successfully connected isolated hillside communities to the city centre, physically and socially stitching the divided metropolis back together.
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To see the real, forward-looking Medellín, the journey starts on the Metro. Opened in 1995, at a time when the city was still finding its feet after the years of violence, the Metro is more than just a transport system. It is the absolute pride of the city and a shining symbol of its rebirth.
The people of Medellín and the surrounding Antioquia region are known as Paisas, and they have an immense sense of regional pride. This is reflected in their Metro. The first thing you notice is that it is ridiculously, spotlessly clean. There’s no graffiti, no litter. People queue politely, speak quietly, and look after it as if it were their own home. Even the stations feel like miniature galleries; I spotted some cracking street art on the walls and even a replica of a painting by Fernando Botero, the city’s most famous artist. It’s a system built on “Metro Culture” – a social contract of respect and civic responsibility.
What is the Medellín Metrocable and is it worth riding?
The Metrocable is absolutely worth riding. It isn’t just a scenic tourist attraction; it is a vital network of cable cars that integrated the city’s poorest, steepest hillside communities with the bustling centre, cutting daily commutes from 90 minutes down to just 10.
But the most brilliant part of the whole system, the true stroke of genius, is the Metrocable. Medellín sits in a deep, narrow valley, with many of its poorest communities, or comunas, clinging precariously to the steep hillsides. For decades, these neighbourhoods were physically and socially isolated from the city centre below.
The city’s solution was audacious and transformative: a public transport network of cable cars, fully integrated into the Metro system. You simply step out of the train at a station like San Javier and get straight into a cable car. It is, without a doubt, one of the smartest and most socially progressive pieces of urban planning I have ever seen.
The feeling of rising silently above the city is incredible. As you ascend, a sprawling tapestry of red-brick homes and winding streets unfolds beneath you. This wasn’t built as a tourist ride; it was a lifeline. It slashed daily commute times from an hour and a half of clambering up and down the hill to a mere ten minutes. It connected people to jobs, education, and healthcare. It physically and metaphorically stitched the marginalised communities back into the fabric of the city.
Is Comuna 13 safe to visit, and what are the outdoor escalators?
Yes, Comuna 13 is safe and actively welcomes visitors as part of its new economy. Once a notorious battleground, the neighbourhood has reinvented itself around hip-hop and street art, aided by massive outdoor escalators that replaced a gruelling 35-minute hillside climb with a six-minute glide.
And the Metrocable takes you right to the foot of the most powerful example of this change: Comuna 13.
For years, this neighbourhood had one of the most violent reputations in the world. Its strategic location on the western hills made it a key trafficking corridor, fiercely fought over by guerrillas, state-backed paramilitaries, and local gangs. But from that dark history, the community has forged something truly incredible.
The second you arrive, the energy is palpable. The very first thing I saw was a crew of young lads breakdancing on a mat laid out on the street, drawing a crowd with their incredible skills. This isn’t just a bit of fun; this is the new economy of Comuna 13 in action. This community made a conscious decision to change its narrative, swapping violence for art, music, and creativity.
The most visible symbols of this change are the giant, open-air escalators that snake their way up the hillside. In 2011, the city installed this series of six escalators, turning what was once a gruelling 35-minute climb – the equivalent of 28 storeys – into an effortless six-minute ride. It was a declaration that the people living here mattered.
As you ride up, you’re enveloped by the vibrant street art that kickstarted the area’s comeback. The murals aren’t just decorative; they tell the story of the community’s pain, resilience, and hope for peace. It’s this art that gave Comuna 13 a global reputation for creativity, not conflict. All around you, rappers perform on street corners, telling their stories through rhyme. Every mural, every dance performance, every souvenir stall is a reason for someone to visit, and that income goes directly to supporting the local people who are driving this change. It’s a living, breathing symbol of defiance, and the pride in the air is unmistakable.
What are the giant sculptures in Plaza Botero?
Plaza Botero is an open-air gallery in downtown Medellín featuring 23 massive bronze sculptures by the city’s most famous artist, Fernando Botero. He donated the oversized figures—which explore volume rather than fatness—on the condition they remain free and accessible on the street.
After the organised creativity of Comuna 13, plunging into Downtown Medellín (El Centro) is a full-on sensory assault. It’s busy, loud, chaotic, and feels like the thumping commercial heart of the city. And right in the middle of it all is the magnificent Plaza Botero.
The plaza is a huge open-air gallery dedicated to Medellín’s most celebrated artist, Fernando Botero. His style is unique and instantly recognisable. He describes his work not as “fat,” but as an exploration of “volume” and sensuality. The result is a collection of 23 massive, bronze sculptures of oversized people and animals that are playful, imposing, and wonderfully tactile. The best part is that he donated them all to the city on the condition they were displayed outdoors, accessible to everyone. Art isn’t stuck behind a door here; it’s a living part of the streetscape.
And people really do get involved with them, sometimes in pretty cheeky ways. There’s a constant stream of people having their photo taken while rubbing the rather tiny… err… manhood of the ‘Roman Soldier’ statue. Apparently, it brings good luck in love and life! It perfectly sums up the spirit of the place – a great mix of world-class art and bustling, unfiltered street life.
Where should you stay in Medellín: El Poblado or Laureles?
El Poblado is the polished, international hub packed with modern malls and trendy rooftop bars, making it ideal for first-time visitors. If you prefer a flatter, quieter, and more authentic residential vibe with local cafes, Laureles is the better choice.
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When it comes to choosing a base, you’re spoilt for choice. There’s El Poblado, which we saw at the start. It’s the polished, international hub, often called “Gringolandia” by locals. Its hilly, tree-lined streets are packed with digital nomads, stylish hotels, and restaurants serving everything from sushi to vegan burgers. It’s also home to massive, modern shopping centres like Santafé Mall, which, to be honest, could be anywhere in the world. It’s convenient, safe, and a great option for a first-time visitor.
But if you want to find a more local heart, you head to Laureles. This neighbourhood has a much more chilled, residential vibe. The streets are flatter and laid out in a circular pattern around a central park. It’s a place for just being – sitting in a local cafe, enjoying a beer at a neighbourhood bar, and watching the world go by. It’s less about big sights and more about soaking up the atmosphere of daily Paisa life.
Where can you find the best food and nightlife in Medellín?
After all the exploring, you realise what an incredible place this is to just hang out in. The food scene is fantastic, offering everything from the hearty traditional Bandeja Paisa to world-class cuisine. And when the sun goes down, the whole city comes alive.
I was staying at the Hashtag 98 hotel in El Poblado, and the view from its rooftop bar at night was genuinely something special. Looking out over the glittering sea of lights stretching up the valley walls, you feel the pulse of a smart, modern, international city that’s truly on the up.
The nightlife is as varied as the city itself. One night I’m sipping a cocktail at a chic rooftop bar, the next I’ve somehow ended up at a place called Chiquita, a brilliant and buzzing LGBTQ+ bar watching a fantastic drag show. There really is a bit of everything going on after dark.
Where to stay in Medellín
Most travelers default blindly to El Poblado, and I get why. It is leafy, polished, and packed with specialty coffee shops that look like they were imported straight from Brooklyn. If you want high-design boutique hotels with rooftop pools overlooking the valley, this is your base. Just accept that you will be surrounded by more digital nomads than locals.
For something that feels like an actual Colombian neighborhood rather than an expat bubble, head over to Laureles. It is flatter, greener, and revolves around a grid of circular streets filled with independent guesthouses and mid-century design transformations. It skips the flashy, overpriced nightlife of Poblado in favor of a low-key, creative energy where you can actually hear yourself think.
The budget spectrum here runs from minimalist, concrete-chic studios tailored for remote workers to converted heritage homes with central courtyards. If you want to splurge, skip the generic luxury towers and head up into the hills, where a few independent design lodges offer glass-fronted views over the entire valley floor.
What is the real story of modern Medellín?
The real story of Medellín is about a city that chose to look forward, replacing its violent past with tangible resilience. It is a place that built public escalators instead of walls, relying on art, innovation, and immense community pride rather than dwelling on television stereotypes.
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So, Medellín. It has a past that you can’t, and shouldn’t, ignore. It’s a story that has been sensationalised for television. But I found that the reality of travelling here today is so much richer, more complex, and ultimately more hopeful than the myth.
The real story isn’t about looking backwards at one man’s destructive legacy. It’s about looking forward and seeing the tangible symbols of a city’s resilience everywhere you go. It’s in the profound pride people have for their Metro, the creative energy of the artists in Comuna 13, and a nightlife that’s as fun and diverse as any I’ve experienced.
It’s a city that chose to build escalators instead of walls, and that’s a story worth seeing for yourself.
What do you need to know before visiting Medellín?
Before arriving in Medellín, you should know that the Metro is the cheapest and safest way to get around, and the weather remains spring-like year-round. While neighbourhoods like El Poblado are very safe, you still need to take standard city precautions and carry local cash for smaller street purchases.
Getting Around: The Metro system is fantastic, cheap, and easy to use. Buy a Civica card and top it up. For other journeys, ride-sharing apps like Uber and DiDi are widely available and generally safer than hailing street taxis.
Best Time to Visit: Medellín is nicknamed the “City of Eternal Spring” for good reason. The weather is pleasant and temperate year-round. The wettest months are typically April-May and September-November, but even then, rain usually comes in short, heavy bursts.
Safety: The city has transformed, but it’s still a large South American city. Take the same precautions you would anywhere: be aware of your surroundings, especially at night; don’t flash expensive electronics or jewellery; and stick to reputable transport. El Poblado and Laureles are generally very safe.
Comuna 13: To get the full story and context behind the art, it’s highly recommended to go with a local guide. There are many excellent walking tours (some are free, working on a tip basis) led by people who grew up in the community.
Currency: The official currency is the Colombian Peso (COP). While cards are widely accepted in hotels and modern restaurants, you’ll definitely need cash for smaller cafes, street vendors, and tips.
Have you been to Medellín? Did it surprise you? What part of its transformation story stands out to you the most? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
Frequently asked questions
Why did Medellín build the Inflexión Memorial Park?
The city built the Inflexión Memorial Park to reclaim the narrative from its violent past. It was constructed on the demolished site of Pablo Escobar’s former Mónaco building to honour the 46,612 official victims of the cartel violence between 1983 and 1994.
What is La Catedral in Medellín?
La Catedral was a luxurious, self-designed fortress prison built high in the hills by Pablo Escobar after cutting a deal with the Colombian government. Today, the site has been transformed into a peaceful monastery and retreat run by Benedictine monks.
Is the Medellín Metro clean?
Yes, the Medellín Metro is spotlessly clean. Thanks to a social contract known as ‘Metro Culture’, locals treat the system with immense pride and respect, ensuring there is no graffiti or litter across the network.
Where is the best nightlife in Medellín?
El Poblado is the epicentre of Medellín’s nightlife, boasting everything from chic rooftop bars with glittering valley views to buzzing LGBTQ+ venues like Chiquita, which hosts fantastic drag shows.
What currency is used in Medellín?
The official currency is the Colombian Peso (COP). While credit cards are widely accepted in modern restaurants and hotels in El Poblado, you will definitely need cash for street vendors, small cafes, and tips.
How does the reality of Medellín compare to the narco TV shows?
The Medellín you see on Netflix and Hollywood TV shows is a dramatised ghost of the past. Today’s reality is a vibrant, modern metropolis that has completely reinvented itself through public art, world-class infrastructure, and fierce community pride.Rather than a war zone, you’ll find impeccably clean Metro stations, thriving digital nomad hubs in El Poblado, and welcoming neighbourhoods like Comuna 13 that actively invite tourists to share in their new, creative economy.
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