The short version: I went to Paphos expecting an ancient UNESCO showpiece and got a 1950s town hall, three sad fountains and a lot of concrete. The city centre isn’t the reason to come. The coast is — the rusting MV Demetrios II, a swim at Coral Bay, the limestone stacks at Aphrodite’s Rock — plus the castle and the archaeological park down by the harbour. Sleep in Paphos, spend your days out of it.
On this page9 sections
- Why does the city of Paphos feel like a letdown?
- Is Paphos Old Town (Ktima) Worth Visiting?
- Should you skip the city of Paphos for the coastline?
- Is the Kato Paphos Archaeological Park worth visiting?
- See My Paphos Adventure For Yourself!
- How do you plan a practical trip to Paphos?
- Where to stay in Paphos
- The Verdict: Is Paphos Worth It?
- Frequently asked questions
Why does the city of Paphos feel like a letdown?
The city of Paphos feels like a letdown because its disjointed modern architecture and underwhelming 1950s civic buildings pale in comparison to the region’s ancient history. Instead of a pristine UNESCO paradise, the old town area feels bizarrely modern, acting more like a commercialised tourist trap filled with concrete monstrosities.
Watch this section in the video → 0:00
Right. Let’s talk about Paphos. My first encounter with its civic pride was a fountain in the Old Town. To be blunt, I’ve seen more impressive water features in a B&Q garden centre. It was a bit… sad. A few sad jets of water in a concrete basin. It didn’t exactly scream ‘UNESCO World Heritage site’. For a moment, I wondered if I’d made a mistake coming here. Was this the Paphos everyone talks about?
For ages I thought Paphos was the capital of Cyprus. A bit embarrassing, that. Turns out I was only off by a couple of thousand years: it was the capital, back in the Hellenistic and Roman periods. Today the job belongs to Nicosia (where I’m heading next), and Paphos has settled into being a coastal city with an airport, a big modern shopping centre and a lot of package holidays. My plan was to get past all that and see everything I could, from the old stones to the streets nobody films.
Is Paphos Old Town (Ktima) Worth Visiting?
Not for the history it promises. Ktima, the old town on the hill, is small, and its main hub, Kennedy Square, is named after a 1961 JFK visit rather than anything ancient. What you get is good traditional buildings standing next to concrete blocks with rusty AC units. Worth an hour, not a day.
Watch this section in the video → 0:49
The main part of the city is split into two: Kato Paphos (Lower Paphos), which is the main tourist hub by the harbour, and Ktima Paphos (the Old Town), perched on a hill. I decided to start at the top. This elevated position makes perfect sense from a historical defence perspective, but it can be a bit of a struggle to find on a map if you don’t know what you’re looking for. It’s not a sprawling, grand old town like you might find elsewhere in Europe, but it has a distinct, slightly quirky charm.
Why is the Paphos Town Hall surprisingly modern?
One of the first proper buildings I found was the Paphos Town Hall. It’s a nice building, I’ll give it that. Except it was built in the 1950s — in a city apparently drowning in ancient Roman history, the main civic building is about the same age as my dad. That’s a bit cheeky. It’s also a fair warning: most of what you walk past in Ktima is 20th-century, whatever the brochures say.
What is Kennedy Square in Paphos Old Town?
The central hub of Ktima is Kennedy Square (Platia Kennedy). It gets its name from a visit by John F. Kennedy in 1961 — less ancient empire, more Cold War photo op. It’s pedestrianised now and ringed with shops and cafés, and it’s where the clash between old and new is most obvious: a well-kept traditional building, then a concrete block somebody was allowed to put up next to it, then another good one. Fine for a coffee. Not the reason you flew here.
What is the Holy Bishopric of Paphos?
The Holy Bishopric of Paphos is a grand, beautifully maintained building that serves as the regional head office for the Orthodox Church. Located just off the main commercial squares, it offers a peaceful glimpse into the island’s deep religious roots.
Just off the main square, I found a cluster of buildings that felt far more authentic. The most impressive of these is the Holy Bishopric of Paphos. This grand, beautifully maintained building is essentially the head office for the Orthodox Church in the region. Next to it stands the Agios Theodoros Cathedral. The whole area feels like a small, peaceful monastery, a world away from the traffic and shops just a few steps away. The architecture is stunning, and it’s a glimpse into the deep religious roots of the island. It’s a bit of a step up from my usual WeWork office, that’s for sure.
Should you skip the city of Paphos for the coastline?
Yes, you should absolutely skip the city limits for the coastline. The real magic of the Paphos region lies in its dramatic limestone cliffs, sandy beaches, hidden coves, and the striking rusting hulk of the MV Demetrios II shipwreck.
Watch this section in the video → 4:15
While the Old Town was interesting, the real magic of Paphos for me was its dramatic coastline. The limestone cliffs, hidden coves, and mythological landmarks are what truly set this part of Cyprus apart. So, I headed out of the city to explore.
Why is there a shipwreck off the coast of Paphos?
From the high ground of the Old Town I’d spotted a shipwreck out on the coast, so that was the next stop. This rusting hulk is the MV Demetrios II. In the video I say it ran aground in 2011 — I got that wrong. It went down in a storm on the 8th of March 1998, carrying timber from Greece to Syria. The local story is that it might not have been entirely accidental, with whispers of insurance money. Naughty. It was written off as unrecoverable and has been slowly giving itself back to the sea ever since. It sits near the Sea Caves and has turned into an accidental landmark — a decent view from the shore, and a favourite with photographers at sunset.
Does Coral Bay Actually Have Coral?
Next up, a bit of beach time at the famous Coral Bay. Now, here’s a fun fact to ruin your day: there is basically no living coral in Coral Bay. The name is a bit of a misnomer, likely coming from the fossilised sea life found in the limestone rocks and sand. A bit of a letdown if you brought your snorkel expecting to find Nemo!
That said, it’s a lovely beach. A wide crescent of proper sand and calm, clear water. I went in, and can confirm the Med in the shoulder season is still cold. Watching the sunset from here it reminded me of La Pared in Fuerteventura — not as dramatic, calmer waves, a smaller cliff — but that’s decent company for a bay to keep. Sunbeds, umbrellas and a few cafés on the sand, so it’s family-friendly, and I’d guess rammed in July and August.
What is the mythology behind Aphrodite’s Rock?
You can’t do Paphos without Petra tou Romiou, better known as Aphrodite’s Rock. It’s the one place on this coast where the myth-making and the actual scenery are both worth the drive — and I say that as someone who spent five minutes on camera asking whether the tourism board writes the myths.
The Mythology of Aphrodite’s Birth: According to the ancient Greeks, this is where Aphrodite, the Goddess of Love, Beauty, and Pleasure, was born from the sea foam (aphros). The story goes that Cronus castrated his father, Uranus, and threw his genitals into the sea. From the resulting foam, Aphrodite emerged and was guided to shore on a seashell at this very spot. It’s one of the most important mythological sites in the entire Greek world.
The Legend of the Byzantine Hero: The name Petra tou Romiou actually means ‘Rock of the Greek’. This refers to a different legend, that of the Byzantine hero Digenes Akritas. It’s said that he used his incredible strength to hurl these massive rocks at Saracen ships during their raids on the island.
My Experience at Aphrodite’s Rock: Getting to the beach is an adventure in itself. You park across the main road and walk through a slightly dingy underpass. Emerging onto the pebble beach, the sight of the huge sea stacks is properly impressive. The water is crystal clear and a stunning shade of blue. Of course, you’ll find the ubiquitous little towers of stacked stones that tourists seem compelled to build everywhere. I resisted the urge to play Jenga. The big legend is that if you swim around the main rock three times, you’ll be blessed with eternal youth. I wasn’t falling for that one. I’d probably just get very cold and still have to pay for my next haircut. It’s a beautiful, wild-feeling place, but be warned: climbing on the rocks is a proper health and safety nightmare. Aphrodite, if you loved me, you would have put in some steps!
Is the Kato Paphos Archaeological Park worth visiting?
Honest answer: I didn’t go in on this trip, and the video doesn’t cover it. But if you’re coming to Paphos for history rather than beaches, this is where it actually is — the whole of Kato Paphos is the UNESCO World Heritage site, and the archaeological park is the core of it. What follows is the practical stuff, not a review.
What is inside the Kato Paphos Archaeological Park?
The Kato Paphos Archaeological Park holds the remains of the ancient city: a 2nd-century Roman odeon, a ruined Byzantine castle, and the Roman floor mosaics the site is famous for, showing scenes from Greek mythology.
This vast park contains the remains of the ancient city. It’s huge, so wear comfortable shoes and bring water, especially in the heat. For a modest entry fee of €4.50, you get access to world-class ruins. For more information on opening times, which vary by season, you can check the Department of Antiquities official website.
- The Mosaics: The absolute highlight is the collection of stunningly preserved Roman mosaics, primarily found in the villas of four Roman noblemen (the House of Dionysus, the House of Orpheus, the House of Aion, and the House of Theseus). These intricate floors depict elaborate scenes from Greek mythology in incredible detail and colour. They are genuinely world-class and worth the entrance fee alone.
- The Odeon: A beautifully restored 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre. It’s still used for performances today, and you can just imagine what it must have been like to watch a play here two thousand years ago.
- Saranta Kolones: The name means ‘Forty Columns’, and you can see the remains of these granite columns scattered around the ruins of this Byzantine castle. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1222 but remains a fascinating site to explore.
What is the history of Paphos Castle?
Guarding the harbour is Paphos Castle. Not the most impressive fort you’ll ever see, but it’s had a weird career: a Byzantine fort, rebuilt by the Lusignans in the 13th century, dismantled by the Venetians, rebuilt by the Ottomans. Somewhere in all that it’s been a prison and, for a while, a salt store. Imagine getting locked up in a giant salt shaker. It’s not big, but for €2.50 it’s worth a quick look, and the roof view over the harbour is the best bit.
Is the Paphos Harbour area worth visiting?
Standing in the archaeological park is the Paphos Lighthouse. This one went up in the 1930s to replace the original from 1888, and it’s automated now. Down below, the harbour is the busy, commercial side of Paphos: restaurants, cafés, kiosks selling boat trips. Two thousand years of ruins a few metres uphill, and a kiosk trying to sell you a boat trip. That’s Paphos in one street.
See My Paphos Adventure For Yourself!
Reading about Paphos is one thing, but seeing it is another. I filmed my entire day of exploration, from the underwhelming fountain to the magnificent Aphrodite’s Rock. If you want to get a real feel for the city, see the stunning coastal views, and join me for the full tour, you can watch the video right here. It gives you a much better sense of the scale and atmosphere of these incredible places.
How do you plan a practical trip to Paphos?
If you’re planning your own trip, here are a few practical tips based on my experience to help you get the most out of your visit.
How Do You Get to Paphos?
Paphos has its own international airport (PFO), which is served by many airlines, including budget carriers from the UK and Europe. From the airport, it’s a straightforward 20-30 minute journey into the city. You can take the 612 bus to the Kato Paphos harbour or the 613 to the Old Town (Karavella station). Taxis are also readily available but will be significantly more expensive.
What’s the Best Way to Get Around Paphos?
Kato Paphos and the harbour area are very walkable. However, to explore the wider area, like Coral Bay, the shipwreck, or Aphrodite’s Rock, I’d highly recommend hiring a car. It gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace. Driving is on the left, the same as in the UK, which makes it easy for us Brits. There is a decent local bus network, but it can be slow and might not serve all the more remote spots.
When is the Best Time of Year to Visit Paphos?
I went in the shoulder season and I’d do it again. Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) give you warm weather for walking without July and August’s heat and crowds. The sea’s cooler, but the ruins are far more pleasant. One practical thing: the sun was up around 6am when I was there, so get out early — the old town was dead quiet first thing — and accept you’ll be tired by the evening.
A Quick Q&A for Your Paphos Holiday
- Is Paphos expensive? It can be. Prices in the main tourist areas by the harbour are comparable to other European holiday destinations. However, if you eat and drink in the Old Town (Ktima), you’ll find more reasonable prices and a more local atmosphere.
- How many days do you need in Paphos? I’d say 3-4 days is a good amount of time. This gives you a full day for the archaeological park and harbour, a day for exploring the coastline, and another day to relax or explore further afield, like the Akamas Peninsula.
- Is Paphos a party town? While there is a strip of bars and clubs (known as ‘Bar Street’), it’s generally considered more relaxed than, say, Ayia Napa. It caters more to families and couples than hardcore clubbers.
Where to stay in Paphos
Choosing where to pitch up in Paphos means deciding which version of the region you actually want to wake up to. If you want a shred of local character, bypass the mass-market mega-resorts by the harbor and head up into the Old Town. A few creative, independently run guesthouses have taken over vintage buildings hidden behind the modern concrete blocks, offering a solid base if you prefer drinking coffee with locals rather than holiday package crowds.
For those who want to escape the city center entirely, the best options sit further along the coast. The choices split between scaled-back, family-run stone houses tucked into the hillside villages and design-forward, low-profile boutique retreats positioned near the dramatic cliffs. Staying out here gives you immediate access to the sea stacks and shipwrecks without having to navigate the resort veneer every single morning.
The Verdict: Is Paphos Worth It?
So, what’s the verdict? Paphos is two places. The coastline — the shipwreck, Coral Bay, the limestone stacks at Aphrodite’s Rock — is the reason to come, and the castle and archaeological park down by the harbour give you the history the city centre promises but doesn’t deliver. The centre itself, with its tired tourist strips and concrete dropped between good old buildings, isn’t pretty. I don’t need it polished; a bit of deterioration adds character. But the modern bits were allowed to happen right next to the good bits, and it shows.
The coast I’d go back for. The city I’d sleep in. That’s the honest way to plan it. Am I being too harsh? Let me know in the comments, watch the video for the on-the-spot reactions (and the fountains, which you have to see to believe), and subscribe so you don’t miss where I’m off to next. Cheers.
Frequently asked questions
Is there actual coral at Coral Bay in Paphos?
No, there is basically no living coral in Coral Bay. The name is a bit of a misnomer that likely comes from the fossilised sea creatures found in the local limestone rocks and sand. It’s a beautiful sandy beach, but don’t bring your snorkel expecting to find vibrant coral reefs.
What is the shipwreck off the coast of Paphos?
The rusting shipwreck visible from the Paphos coast is the MV Demetrios II. It ran aground in a storm in March 1998 (though some local rumours whisper about insurance fraud) while carrying timber from Greece to Syria. It was deemed unrecoverable and has sat there ever since.
Is it safe to climb on Aphrodite’s Rock?
While Aphrodite’s Rock is stunning to look at, climbing on the massive limestone sea stacks is a proper health and safety nightmare. Local legend says swimming around the rock three times grants eternal youth, but the water can be incredibly cold and the rocks themselves are sharp and lack any steps.
Is Paphos the capital of Cyprus?
No, Nicosia is the capital of Cyprus. While Paphos was the capital during the Hellenistic and Roman periods a couple of thousand years ago, today it operates primarily as a UNESCO World Heritage site and a bustling coastal tourist resort.
Is Paphos an island?
No. Paphos is a city and district on the south-west coast of Cyprus — Cyprus is the island. It has its own international airport (PFO), which is probably why people search for ‘Paphos island’. The coast around it, from Coral Bay down to Aphrodite’s Rock, is the bit that feels like an island holiday; the city itself is a working modern town with a castle and a Roman archaeological park at the harbour end.
Why is Paphos Castle so famous?
Paphos Castle guards the main harbour and has had a bizarre history. Originally a Byzantine fort, it was rebuilt, dismantled, and rebuilt again by various empires over the centuries. At different points in history, it has served as a fortress, a prison, and even a salt store for the Venetians.